Burning Questions With Marani Owner Alex Grenouiller

Burning Questions With Marani Owner Alex Grenouiller

Tell us about your business Marani Deli: why you started it, the ethos behind it, and the vibe you were wanting to create for your customers. 
Marani Deli celebrates our family's heritage: my French background and my partner Aaron’s Sicilian roots. We want the customers to feel like they’ve stepped into our grandparents’ kitchens. It’s been an idea brewing for many years while managing restaurants all over Sydney. Our aim is to curate the best cheese, charcuterie, and provisions from our motherlands. Our shelves are stocked with products that have a meaningful reason to be here. Everything has a story and we’re here to share it with everyone. Lots of nostalgia, quality all around and open-armed hospitality, just as we grew up with.
As for the name, the word 'Marani’ means cellar in Georgian, where large amphora (Qvevri) used for winemaking are buried in the ground. We travelled to Georgia in 2018 to visit natural winemakers and discovered an incredible country with delicious food, warmth and generous hospitality. This is the atmosphere we wanted to recreate.
This might be like asking a parent who their favourite child is, but what are some of your favourite products in-store? 
It’s a hard one to answer. I guess items that bring memories to us. The French chestnut spread reminds me of a jam-making day in rural France at Mamie Colette’s kitchen back in the 90s. The almond biscotti our Sicilian grandma makes with Jo (Aaron’s mum) every week for us to have on the counter. I’ve eaten them at all the family lunches over the last decade and I’m so proud they’ve become an iconic treat at Marani Deli.
I obviously get excited about the constantly evolving selection of cheeses on the counter. They change with the season and it’s always wonderful to taste the terroir and the craftsmanship involved. Whether it’s coming out of Europe or made here by the talented producers of our Australian cheesemaking scene, we are truly lucky! 
What do you love about having your own business?
I’m a baby business owner, it hasn’t been a year yet, but I didn’t expect it to be as satisfying as it is. It’s a lot of work (that was expected), and while running a small business is a roller coaster these days it’s something that makes me so happy. I have the freedom to offer products I love made by people I value. It gives me the platform to tell many stories, sharing the food heritage I’m very attached to. The deli is also a place where I surround myself with champions from the hospitality industry for our regular Supra Wine Nights. The Newtown local residents have been so supportive since we’ve opened our doors and it means so much! 
You’re a trained chef and have spent time working at some of our favourite Sydney eateries. Take us through your career journey.
I went through hospitality school back in Grenoble, France. I trained to work in the kitchen, front-of-house and also at the reception desk of hotels. I arrived in Sydney in 2010 and mainly worked as a restaurant manager. I started at Bistro Papillon, a wonderful traditional French restaurant in the city, and then moved on to fine dining at Gastro Park in Potts Point. An important part of my career was to manage Oscillate Wildly in Newtown. I absolutely loved it, as did many Newtown locals who now share their memories with me when they come into the deli. It was a really special and unique dining experience. More recently, while planning this deli adventure, I split my time between Cafe Paci—with all the wonderful people that make it an iconic part of the Sydney restaurant scene—and Penny’s cheese shop where Penny was a great mentor to me.
What role do you think food plays in preserving cultural heritage and personal identity?
Huge! French and Italian (and many other countries) cultural heritage revolves around food. The history you learn, the places you go, the people you meet, the family you grew up in - food has always had an important part in it. And often food memories are the strongest memories we have. 
The last thing you cooked
Pkhali. It’s a Georgian walnut dip I make regularly at the deli. I crush walnuts into a butter and add marigold flowers, spices and a vegetable I choose. I made two this week: roasted capsicum and beetroot. Pkhali is a classic item of Georgian ‘supra’ (feast) and a perfect dip for a dinner party!
Favourite food/travel memory
I have so many! Food experiences when you travel are the best thing ever, and this one was really unique and fun. A few years ago, I saved my pennies and went for a solo degustation lunch on a weekday at the 3 Michelin-starred restaurant Arpège in Paris. Head chef Alain Passard was popping out of the kitchen to check on guests and to have a chat with us, especially the solo diners (how nice!). Plate by plate, I was tasting the most wonderful dishes I’d ever eaten in my life. At one point, Alain sat down with friends at a nearby table and became absolutely insane and hilarious. He began throwing pieces of aged Comté cheese onto my table so I could have a taste, and later came around with black truffles and a microplane and shaved truffles all over the tablecloth covering it like jacaranda flowers on the street on a windy day. The scene, the action, the food and the wine I had drunk by then made it a very surreal experience.
Ultimate snack
I’d say the rustic baguette sandwich I make at the deli. Made with Victoire Boulangerie’s rustic baguette (where I pick up hot bread every morning for the deli), a good quality butter, some nice ham (I love the smoked one from Pino’s Dolce Vita in Kogarah) and Marcel Petite Comté (18-24 months old). Add some salt and pepper and voilà! Simple, classic, the best!

 

 

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